Tuesday, March 25, 2008

FAQ's - Setting Up A Turtle Tank

All aquatic turtles have seven basic needs that must be met for them to be healthy and thrive.

#1— Correct Lighting
Turtles need two types of bulbs: UVB and heat. The first type, UVB comes only in fluorescent form and emits UVB as well as vitamin D3. The vitamin D3 allows the turtle to absorb calcium and other vitamins and minerals that are added to the food. Considering that a turtle’s shell is made up of mostly calcium, it is absolutely vital that the turtles receive the proper amount in their diet. An added bonus to using a UVB light is that is kills bacteria in the water that can make a turtle sick!
The second type of light bulb that a turtle needs is a heat lamp, specifically one that is made for reptiles. Heat is important to ALL reptiles. They need it to digest their food properly. Without a heat lamp, the turtle will not get the nutrition that it needs!
We are often asked, “Can’t I just put my turtle tank outside?” Unfortunately the answer is NO. Putting your tank outside has the same effect as leaving your turtle in a locked car on a hot day! “What if I put the tank next to the window?” Again, NO. The glass filters out UVB — it’s the same reason why you can’t get a suntan through the window! Plus, your tank can heat up and you’ll end up with turtle soup! These reasons are why we recommend a minimum of a 10 gallon tank for turtles — you can’t set up the proper lighting on a bowl.


#2— A 10 Gallon Tank Size Minimum
Turtles need space — even babies! A 10 gallon is the minimum size needed to create the correct thermal gradient (which is the temperature difference between the basking area and the cool area). All reptiles need a cool spot to get away from the heat. That is how they regulate their temperature and keep from overheating. Also, a 10 gallon tank provides up to 2 baby turtles plenty of room to swim.

#3— Basking Platform
Turtles like to bask in the sun — in nature, you’ll often find them laying on a log, soaking in the heat and UVB of the sun. At home, they need a dry spot that they can get out on and bask under the heat lamp. We recommend to use only items that are approved for use with animals. Things from outside can be contaminated with pesticides and parasites!


#4— Filter
A filter will not only make keeping your turtle tank clean easier, it will keep the tank safe for your turtles. Filters should be submersible (we recommend the Whisper In-Tank Filter®). Simply rinse the cartridge weekly and replace it monthly. The filter will pick up waste and extra food, as well as build up the good bacteria that breaks down waste on the microscopic level.

#5 — De-chlorinator & Waste Reducer
These are additives that make the water safe for your turtle. The de-chlorinator takes out chlorine, chloramine, and ammonia from your tap water — all of which can be harmful to your turtle’s shell. The waste reducer adds beneficial bacteria which actually feed off of waste on the microscopic level.

#6— Food & Protein Source
We recommend using a quality commercial turtle pellet for the base diet. To that, add freeze-dried shrimp, crickets, and mealworms for a protein source. Offer up romaine lettuce on a weekly basis — but skip the rest of the people food! They can make your turtle sick and your tank a mess!

#7— Plastic Plant
Instead of using gravel in the bottom of your turtle tank, a good floating plastic plant will give your turtle the perfect place to float on the cool area of the tank, as well as keep your tank much cleaner! If you really want to use gravel, choose a chunky stone that is easy to remove when you need to change the water.

All seven of these basic turtle needs can be found in the Underground Reptiles Turtle Starter Kit.





And in case you were wondering, "Why can't I just use a turtle bowl?"
We all remember the little turtle bowl with the palm tree from when we were kids. We got them with a little baby turtle or two for a cute little pet. Unfortunately, those turtles usually ended up dying within a few months. The reason Underground Reptiles does not carry nor recommend the turtle bowl is because it doesn’t provide the baby turtle with everything that it needs to stay healthy and thrive. The water gets gross quickly without filtration, there is not adequate room for swimming or basking, and there is no good way to set up the proper lighting. We want you to enjoy your pet and have a successful time owning it! When you purchase our Baby Turtle Starter Kit, you get all seven basics -- this gives you the peace of mind that your turtles are well on their way to a long, healthy life!














2 comments:

Unknown said...

Hey I just want to commend you on your post. Very useful stuff for beginners that will be extremely confused about lighting UVB this, calcium that, gallon size and on and on. I want to add that for proper d3 consumption/calcium and whatnot it depends what type you have. For example I have a red footed tortoise. They originate in very hot climates so I use Zilla desert 50 lights on him. If I an aquatic turtle of some kind, I would use their tropical 25s. Get what I'm saying? Just thought I'd point that out because some people might think, "oh a light is a light." Well, yes they give off UVB but at different strengths!

HardCore Wild said...

I'm actually thinking about getting a turtle for my son soon and thanks to your post i now know how to properly set up its cage. Thanks man i was starting to worry about it lol. Keep up the good work.