New Product Reviews - Zoo Med Moto Mister

The new Moto Mister from Zoo Med is a great alternative to both the plain spray bottle and the pump-type misters that are on the market today.

From Zoo Med: This product has an automatic sprayer requiring no pumping! Use it to increase humidity in terrariums. Has a capacity of 48 oz (1.4L) and requires two AA batteries (included).

Priced at just $19.99, it's also really affordable. No more sore hands and it holds a lot of water, which is especially great when you have more than one cage -- you know who you are!

The only downside that we see? That we'll need a new way to work out our forearms! Click here to purchase.

New Product Reviews - Zoo Med Repti Fogger

Zoo Med has come out with an awesome new fogger and we tried it out before offering it to you! The great news is that it works better than any other fogger we have used -- plus the setup is SO easy!

From Zoo Med: Increase your tank's humidity with Zoo Med’s new Repti Fogger™, a Compact Ultrasonic Humidifying Fogger with adjustable fog output control. This unit is ready to operate! It includes one liter bottle and all necessary fittings. It also features a “no-spill” valve making it easy to remove and refill the water bottle.

The nicest feature is that the fogger features an automatic shut-off valve, so if it runs out of water, it shuts off. Perfect for those of us who are a little on the forgetful side. We recommend to used purified or distilled water to keep the transducer plate clean and clear. We also love the 1-liter bottle (included) that keeps a nice supply of fresh water on hand. If you leave it on the lowest setting, it can go a couple of days before having to refill. Click here to purchase one for your tank!

New Product Reviews - Nature's Miracle Disinfectant

Nature's Miracle Ultra 3-in-1 Disinfectant cleans, deodorizes, and disinfects. Effectively kills bacteria, viruses, and fungi including: Canine parvovirus, canine distemper virus, feline leukemia virus, bordatella bronchiseptica (kennel cough), and ringworm on hard, non-porous inanimate surfaces. For use on litter boxes, kennels, cages, animal and reptiles habitats. Not for use on animals.

This is one of the first disinfectants of this strength available to the public! We used it on our cages and found that the smell was not overpowering, but you could definitely "smell the clean" if you know what we mean! We would recommend using this product in the following situations:

• If an animal has had any illness


• If you are using a used tank or moving an animal from one tank to another


• If you had an animal die (hopefully not!) and you would like to reuse the enclosure


• You are doing a thorough "spring cleaning"

The main key to disinfecting is to allow the product to sit on the surface for three to five minutes. If you wipe it off right after spraying it, you do not allow enough contact time to truly disinfect.

For cleaning cages, Natures Miracle Orange-Oxy Power Stain & Odor Remover is a dual-action advanced formula that combines the fast-acting power of natural orange with super-oxygenated cleaning abilities. It is ideal for refreshing dull and faded carpets, bringing out a brighter, newer look. The deep cleansing ability removes stain and odors completely to avoid re-soiling. Orange-power leaves area smelling fresh and clean.

April Is National Pet First Aid Awareness Month

What kind of supplies do you need to keep on hand for administering first aid for your reptiles? Some supplies are readily available over the counter and some will require a prescription from the vet.

By the way, if you have not chosen a reptile vet, what are you waiting for? It's much easier to choose before there is an emergency! Make sure that your reptile vet is not merely a vet that sometimes sees reptiles -- a specialist is best, or just ask how many reptiles your vet sees on a regular basis. There is nothing worse than someone who "thinks" they can treat your animal (especially once it's an emergency!). Our store vet, Dr. Heather Skaggs, DVM, sees cats and dogs as well, but she really knows her reptiles!

Here are some basic supplies that you should have on hand for administering first aid. (Please make sure that you secure your supplies out of reach of children!)

• Chlorhexadine solution - used for fungal and bacterial skin infections, disinfecting cages and supplies, and as a general cage cleaner
• Assorted syringes (with needles and without) - you can also purchase oral syringes that can be used to administer medication
• Iodine solution - mixed with water and used to treat open wounds
• Claw clippers - make sure that you choose ones that are made for reptiles
• Styptic powder - just in case you cut the nails a little close
• Gauze, assorted sizes
• Vetrap (or similar first aid tape) - this tape does not stick to the wound, only to itself
• Plain popsicle sticks - for securing broken limbs
• Pedialyte - make sure to rotate this out and always check the expiration date. Choose an unflavored formula
• Sterile saline solution - for flushing out eyes and wounds
• Neosporin or other triple antibiotic ointment
• Mineral oil - for stuck-on sheds
• KY Jelly (no spermicide) - for lubricating probe sets and force feeding
• Towels and washcloths
• Pillowcases - for transport
• Cotton-tipped swabs
• Gram scale - for weighing
• Drumel tool - for filing back beaks and nails
• Disposable gloves - for you, of course!
• Tweezers

You may also want to keep different antibiotics on hand, as long as you and your veterinarian feel that you are confident to administer the meds properly.

Some of the most common problems that we see are actually due to improper husbandry. There are several elements that are important for all reptiles:

• Spraying down your animal when they go into shed and as they are shedding will help prevent dry sheds and shed buildup
• Making sure that your animals are kept at the appropriate basking temperature, shade temperature, and humidity levels
• Providing UVB bulbs (changed regularly) as well as dusting your animal's food with vitamin and calcium supplements (not applicable to snakes) will prevent a wide range of metabolic and deficiency issues
• Feeding your animal food items that have been kept properly (for example, if your supplier's cricket bin is full of dead crickets, chances are that the live ones that you're getting have been exposed to all sorts of bacteria!)
• Changing your substrate regularly (we recommend every 4-6 weeks, with spot-cleaning done daily)

Don't wait until your animal is almost dead before seeking out help! Having a chameleon that hasn't eaten in 3 days is a totally different issue than having a chameleon that hasn't been eating for 3 weeks! It might seem like we are exaggerating a bit, but unfortunately, we aren't! The first step should be to ask the breeder or store where you got it from what they recommend. However, don't be offended if they tell you take the animal to the vet -- they are just looking out for your animal's best interest.

FAQ's - Setting Up A Turtle Tank

All aquatic turtles have seven basic needs that must be met for them to be healthy and thrive.

#1— Correct Lighting
Turtles need two types of bulbs: UVB and heat. The first type, UVB comes only in fluorescent form and emits UVB as well as vitamin D3. The vitamin D3 allows the turtle to absorb calcium and other vitamins and minerals that are added to the food. Considering that a turtle’s shell is made up of mostly calcium, it is absolutely vital that the turtles receive the proper amount in their diet. An added bonus to using a UVB light is that is kills bacteria in the water that can make a turtle sick!
The second type of light bulb that a turtle needs is a heat lamp, specifically one that is made for reptiles. Heat is important to ALL reptiles. They need it to digest their food properly. Without a heat lamp, the turtle will not get the nutrition that it needs!
We are often asked, “Can’t I just put my turtle tank outside?” Unfortunately the answer is NO. Putting your tank outside has the same effect as leaving your turtle in a locked car on a hot day! “What if I put the tank next to the window?” Again, NO. The glass filters out UVB — it’s the same reason why you can’t get a suntan through the window! Plus, your tank can heat up and you’ll end up with turtle soup! These reasons are why we recommend a minimum of a 10 gallon tank for turtles — you can’t set up the proper lighting on a bowl.

#2— A 10 Gallon Tank Size Minimum
Turtles need space — even babies! A 10 gallon is the minimum size needed to create the correct thermal gradient (which is the temperature difference between the basking area and the cool area). All reptiles need a cool spot to get away from the heat. That is how they regulate their temperature and keep from overheating. Also, a 10 gallon tank provides up to 2 baby turtles plenty of room to swim.

#3— Basking Platform
Turtles like to bask in the sun — in nature, you’ll often find them laying on a log, soaking in the heat and UVB of the sun. At home, they need a dry spot that they can get out on and bask under the heat lamp. We recommend to use only items that are approved for use with animals. Things from outside can be contaminated with pesticides and parasites!


#4— Filter
A filter will not only make keeping your turtle tank clean easier, it will keep the tank safe for your turtles. Filters should be submersible (we recommend the Whisper In-Tank Filter®). Simply rinse the cartridge weekly and replace it monthly. The filter will pick up waste and extra food, as well as build up the good bacteria that breaks down waste on the microscopic level.

#5 — De-chlorinator & Waste Reducer
These are additives that make the water safe for your turtle. The de-chlorinator takes out chlorine, chloramine, and ammonia from your tap water — all of which can be harmful to your turtle’s shell. The waste reducer adds beneficial bacteria which actually feed off of waste on the microscopic level.

#6— Food & Protein Source
We recommend using a quality commercial turtle pellet for the base diet. To that, add freeze-dried shrimp, crickets, and mealworms for a protein source. Offer up romaine lettuce on a weekly basis — but skip the rest of the people food! They can make your turtle sick and your tank a mess!

#7— Plastic Plant
Instead of using gravel in the bottom of your turtle tank, a good floating plastic plant will give your turtle the perfect place to float on the cool area of the tank, as well as keep your tank much cleaner! If you really want to use gravel, choose a chunky stone that is easy to remove when you need to change the water.

All seven of these basic turtle needs can be found in the Underground Reptiles Turtle Starter Kit.





And in case you were wondering, "Why can't I just use a turtle bowl?"
We all remember the little turtle bowl with the palm tree from when we were kids. We got them with a little baby turtle or two for a cute little pet. Unfortunately, those turtles usually ended up dying within a few months. The reason Underground Reptiles does not carry nor recommend the turtle bowl is because it doesn’t provide the baby turtle with everything that it needs to stay healthy and thrive. The water gets gross quickly without filtration, there is not adequate room for swimming or basking, and there is no good way to set up the proper lighting. We want you to enjoy your pet and have a successful time owning it! When you purchase our Baby Turtle Starter Kit, you get all seven basics -- this gives you the peace of mind that your turtles are well on their way to a long, healthy life!